Going on a half-year Erasmusprogramme to Vila Real in the North of Portugal made me explore loooots of the country's cities! And it has been fun to travel between the cities in this part of the republic. First, because it's so easy and cheap to get there. Living in the city of Vila Real, I was lucky to find myself in the strategic middle of Northern Portugal. A 1-hour drive with bus company Rodonorte or Rede Expressos took me to Porto for 10 euros. From here, Porto was my Rome for getting to other coastal cities in the West. Second, if you are travelling by bus for its eco-friendly advantages: great! You will be rewarded with stunning views during your ride, especially in the Douro Valley region!
Portugal is famous for its "azulejos", the ceramic (mainly) blue tiles on floors and walls. The Portuguese baroque together with these azulejos are flamboyant, symmetric styles you see in many ancient buildings in Northern Portugal. The marble and bronze interiors, the woodcarvings, the granite exteriors with mosaics,...
However, after living for several months in Portugal, I had seen enough of it. Some cities or particular districts within just stand out for their history and nót so common architecture. Or for the great atmosphere, art, coastlines and views... So here're my favourites!
Bragança
Located Northeast, about 20 km from the Spanish border, this very small city played an important role in Portugese history and the clash between medieval and modern architecture is fascinating!
The city is named after the Royal House of Bragança, a powerful family which provided 15 monarchs for Portugal and 5 Brazilian monarchs during the Renaissance. The former family's castle, Castelo de Bragança (built in 1187), stands on the highest point of the city and is just magical: wide views over rolling mountains covered with olive orchards on one corner of your eye and traditional bright orange-and-white residences on the other. I promise you'll get a mighty prince(ss)-like feeling when parading over the castle walls.
When arriving in Bragança by bus, you will find the bus and former train station surroundings set in a different light by architect Carlos Praça. He designed funny wooden benches on wheels on the old train tracks (but don't get your hopes up, the train station is no longer in use..) Among great architecture, Bragança has an artsy side as well. The "Centro de Art Contemporânea Graça Morais" is a great art gallery, mainly about the contemporary artwork from famous painter Graça Morais. A shoutout to the dark but beautiful conscious artworks from Spanish painter Santiago Ydáñez in the temporary exhibiton.
Castelo de Bragança
Location: Rua da Cidadela 530, Bragança
Opening hours: Tuesday till Sunday (except public holidays) from 9 – 12 and 14 – 17. Free entry on Fridays from 9 – 12
Centro de Art Contemporânea Graça Morais
Location: Rua Abílio Beça 105, Bragança
Opening hours: Tuesday till Sunday from 10 – 18.30
Porto
I have to admit, my first time in Porto I was not amazed. My impression was a noisy, unstructured city. There's so much amazing architecture but the facades where often hidden behind gray buildings and the city's viewpoints appeared to be built on leftover public space. But after rethinking the metropolis and stumbling upon just the right places, I gained a soft spot for the lovely chaos. Porto is referred to as the second capital of Portugal, despite being a small city. There are a loooot of things to see but yet it's cozy enough!
Local art lovers will like the shops in 'Rua de Miquel Bombarda' and its surroundings while the concrete building of Casa da Música is a great place for concerts. The cosiest cafes and squares are around the Livraria Lello bookstore and the urban garden of Praça de Lisboa. More a beach person or want to try out surfing on the rough coast of Porto? Head to Matosinhos! I walked several times along the coastal path and it's such a pleasant spot. It would be great for longboarding or biking too with the wide, even paths and ocean breeze in your hair. With FISH SURF SCHOOL I took my first surf class there and wouldn't mind going back for some more!
I'm planning on writing a more detailed article about Porto so keep your eyes peeled! (:
Coimbra
In January I went to Coimbra. My main drive? Seeing the oldest university of Portugal. And yes, it's true, the University of Coimbra is stunning! The light-colored University Palace dates back to 1308. Framed by the walls of this palace lays a huge courtyard. The outdoor courtyard blends super well with the indoor space from the palace and provides a view over downtown Coimbra. The University Palace is also an Unseco World Heritage site. Next to the University buildings is the Botanical Garden. It's basically located on a sunny hill with on top formal terraces-like gardens from the 18th century. Beneath, on the hillside, is the arboretum and orchards. Several old trees can be found in the garden and there is a mysterious path between high bamboo stems!
At the end of the daytrip, I walked across one of the bridges over the Mondego river and enjoyed the sight of the city on the hill. I only saw a small part of the city and note that Coimbra isn't that big.
Viana Do Castelo
I didn't spend much time in Viana do Castelo but I wish I had. This charming city has a strong connection to the sea. It's situated along the coastline where the River Lima pops out in the Atlantic Ocean. During the 16th century, Portuguese explorers and traders took off from the city's port to discover unknown lands and seas. Navigator João Álvares Fagundes was one of them. He sailed the North Atlantic and organised expeditions to the coasts of Nova Scotia and Newfoundland, Canada.
Viana do Castelo's famous 'Basílica de Santa Luzia' on top of the hill Monte de Santa Luzia is far from a tourist trap. The combination of neo-Gothic and Byzantine styles is the work of architect Miguel Ventura Terra from 1904 till 1959. The frescoes, statues and altars are sculpted from marble and the three rose windows illuminate the interior beautifully. Outside, the panoramic view over the salty ocean and city is at its best in the morning and evening!
Walking down Avenida do Atlântico to the beachside during sunset also ensures in beautiful scenes.
Being a less-visited city by tourists, Viana do Castelo has this rural and industrial vibes which I fell in love with and make it so characteristic. I hope it will stay this way and that only a form of sustainable tourism maintains!
Basílica de Santa Luzia
Location: Estrada de Santa Luzia, Viana do Castelo
Opening hours: from 8 – 19 in Summer and from 8 – 17 in Winter
Free entrance
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